In the Kitchen With: Chef Bill Briand

OS recently caught up with Bill Briand, executive chef at Fisher’s in Orange Beach, Alabama, to get his thoughts on Southern farmed oysters and a few recipes. He’s one of the original oyster aquaculture supporters in the restaurant world and remains a loyal fan. While he admits he’s an equal-opportunity oyster lover — there’s not one he doesn't like — he is particularly proud of the bivalves pulled from baskets and cages in Alabama waters. “I’ve loved watching the farmers around here, guys like Lane at Murder Point, grow and excel at this over the years,” he says. “There was a time when the first oyster farmers were struggling, and now, they’re all doing great. That’s just been awesome to see that evolution.”

And to be a part of it. Fisher’s serves oysters from a rotating list of Southern farms, and Briand doesn’t play favorites. “They are all so good, that's one reason I’ve always supported and promoted oyster farming,” he says. “But it’s also really about supporting local farmers; I want to help any farmer here, and oyster farmers are a part of that.”

Briand is thrilled to see more and more farms popping up across the Southern Atlantic and Gulf, stressing, “Every oyster in the water is helping the water; it’s such a sustainable industry.” And he’s not worried about the market being saturated. “There’s plenty of demand for all the oysters,” he says. “In the beginning, I had to beg people to try them. Now, people beg for them.” And his diners do play favorites. “If I don't happen to have the particular oyster they want, they are not happy with me."

Pro Tips: Chef Bill Briand on opening and enjoying oysters

  • Shuck it. If you’re a beginner when it comes to shucking, watch a tutorial on YouTube first and always start by shucking from the back. Take your time. You don’t have to be in a race.

  • Cheers. The wife and I like a dry white or rose with oysters. I want something crisp with the brine.

  • Hot or Not. My wife doesn’t like them raw, and I pretty much want them only raw. I don’t even want sauce or a cracker. You don’t need it! But, if I am going to cook them, I love them on the grill. That char and smoke flavor really settles into the meat and is great. 

RECIPES

While he's partial to raw oysters with zero accompaniments —"They don't need any!"— chef Briand shared several oyster recipes, including one of the most popular oyster dishes to ever grace the menu at Fisher's, Oysters Earle. (And since it's no longer on the menu, now you can make it at home!)


Oysters Earle

2 dozen freshly shucked oysters

1 cup chopped leeks

1 cup whole peeled garlic cloves

2 cups olive oil

2 pounds softened butter

2 T salt

2 T black pepper

3 T lemon juice

Simmer garlic, leeks in olive oil until tender. Strain off oil and blend garlic and leeks smooth in food processor and cool. Mix with salt, pepper and lemon juice into the softened butter.

Top each oyster with as much of the butter mixture as will fit. Grill or roast oysters until the meat begins to curl and the butter is melted.

Serve with fresh lemon wedges.

Smoked Oyster Mousse

10 tsp gelatin

½ cup water

8 oz cream cheese

1 cup mayo

8 oz smoked oysters, pureed

2 T parsley

1 T Worcestershire sauce

½ tsp creole spice

Juice of ½ lemon

Dash Tabasco

Soften gelatin in water. Combine cream cheese and mayo and heat mixture until smooth. Add oyster puree and all other ingredients and spoon mixture into oiled pate mold. Cool overnight. Serve with crackers and fresh lemon.

Fried Oysters with Sweet Corn Remoulade

2 dozen freshly shucked oysters

2 cups corn flour

1 cup cornmeal

1 T salt

3 T creole spice

Corn Remoulade

Two ears sweet corn roasted and cut off cob

2 cups mayo

2 T creole mustard

1 T lemon juice

1 T chopped parsley

1 T hot sauce

2 tsp capers, chopped

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp paprika

1 green onion, finely chopped

¼ tsp salt

1/8 tsp cayenne pepper

Mix flour, cornmeal and seasonings. Toss oysters into breading mixture until coated. Then fry at 350 degrees until crispy.

Mix all remoulade ingredients together until blended and serve with plenty of lemon.


Jennifer Kornegay