In the Kitchen With: Chef Chris Hathcock
In keeping with the concept of Husk Savannah — shining a spotlight on Southern ingredients — executive chef Chris Hathcock strives to serve dishes and foods that are hyper local. It’s why he gets 400 oysters from Georgia oyster farmers E.L. McIntosh & Son Oyster Company weekly. The Savannah native has also formed relationships with about a dozen other area oyster farmers, many in the Carolinas, who he buys from directly. “Usually everything we serve is only out of the water for 48 hours,” he says. “Four or five varieties are delivered straight to our doorstep from the farms; the others are overnighted.”
This short bridge between him and his ingredients sources allows Hathcock the quality control he wants as a chef — and that Husk’s diners expect — but it provides him with something deeper too. “It’s so much about the people,” he says. “I’ve always enjoyed oysters, but when I came to Husk four years ago, I got into them more and built these connections with the farmers. People like Kyle at Crystal Coast Oysters in North Carolina; he’s so passionate about what he’s doing, and I love that Husk has been able to support that farm and help it grow.”
Hathcock himself has grown into his role at Husk; he cooked throughout college to pay for his time at the University of Georgia and worked his way up in the restaurant world from dishwasher to executive chef, with stints in the kitchens at Empire State South and Staplehouse (in Atlanta) before coming home to Savannah. The common oyster bond he’s discovered since being back feels like a second home. “The Southern oyster community is so special. It embodies Southern hospitality,” he says. “It’s why I love Oyster South’s Landlocked event each year. I really look forward to it. It’s my favorite event to do because it brings that community together. There are so many like-minded folks sharing theirs stories and technique and enthusiasm for Southern oysters.”
He’ll soon be getting a bit more hands-on with the oysters Husk serves. “Nothing is finalized yet, but I think the Crystal Coast guys are going to grow an oyster just for us at Husk and let me name it,” Hathcock says. “That’s in the works and should be fun."
And while he’s a big fan of oysters raised closer to home by the McIntosh family, he hates that they are alone. “They are great, but for Georgia farmed oysters, they are it,” Hathcock says. “I’d love to have more from our waters. I’m excited about Tybee Oyster Company getting some oysters harvested in the next year. It’s also cool that there are farms across the South using UGA spat; that's meaningful to me as a Georgia native and a UGA grad.”
Peanut Horseradish
Chef Chris shares his recipe for Peanut Horseradish, a condiment often served alongside the Southern oysters on Husk's raw bar menu. It's flavorful AND potent, so a little goes a long way. And if you can't find Shio Koji (a fermented marinade widely used in Japan), 25% concentrated vinegar or green peanut oil at your local market, grab some at the links in the ingredient list.
150 grams Shio Koji
15 grams 25% concentrated vinegar
100 grams green peanut oil
60 grams prepared horseradish
200 grams green peanuts
25 grams fresh horseradish